How do you define Danish gastronomy? Until recently, those interested in the subject would have answered ‘Noma’ without hesitation. Inaugurated in 2004, the three-Michelin-star restaurant in Copenhagen changed Denmark’s image by promoting local ingredients. The country has gone from being the homeland of the frikadelle (meatball) to a major player in global gastronomy, capable of overshadowing France.

Today, the definition seems to be about to change: In July 2022, Copenhagen’s Geranium was named world’s best restaurant in the 50 Best Restaurants ranking, a place long held by Noma. And in January 2023, the latter announced, to everyone’s surprise, that it would close in 2024, a revolution in a small city with a high level of influence.

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